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Walking along the banks of impressionism

The exceptional choice of pieces displayed at the Garland boutique sets it apart from the rest of the Parisian jewellers. Rare and sometimes one-of-a-kind pieces share the spotlight with contemporary creations inspired by the spirit and elegance of Paris. From necklaces to rings to watches, Garland jewellery is a collection of true little masterpieces that stand the test of time. Jewellery that is surprisingly refined, brilliantly alive: a Parisian poem, paying tribute to the universal woman.

With the help of American funding the terrace of Maison Fournaise was carefully restored. Good cuisine on the banks of the Seine With the help of American funding the terrace of Maison Fournaise was carefully restored. Good cuisine on the banks of the Seine

The impressionist spirit still burns strong alongside the River Seine – you simply need to know where to look. Why not leave Paris through Saint-Cloud park, and head towards Vaucresson and Louveciennes ? 
Descend into Bougival, cross the Seine by Croissy bridge and visit the island. Continue along the river, passing through Croissy, Chatou and Carrières. As you return to Paris you can go as far as Argenteuil, use the famous bridge to cross the Seine, and give a wave to Manet’s and Caillebotte’s Petit Gennevilliers on your left. As you walk through Asnières, have a thought for Seurat. 
Whether you are tempted more by bucolic, cultural or gastronomic pleasures, choose a beautiful day to try out this impressionist trail – it is full of surprises, and on top of that, you’ll avoid the hordes of tourists at Giverny and Auvers-sur-Oise.

Above, Argenteuil bridge which is now at the heart of a very urban zone; despite the pollution, the light and magical reflections remain “Argenteuil Bridge” as seen by Claude Monet in 1874. At the time, Argenteuil and Asnières held numerous regattas and attracted many bathers. Ah, the good old days...
LOUVECIENNES, THE ARTISTE

Louveciennes and its famous aqueduct dominate the Seine valley. In the 19th century, this village became a favourite holiday resort for musicians (Saint Saëns, Fauré), writers (Maupassant) and, of course, painters: Renoir, Pissarro and Sisley did over one hundred and twenty paintings in this very spot!

The Comtesse du Barry’s castle and music pavilion
This former water pavilion was extended in 1769 by Madame du Barry, Louis XV’s favourite. The music pavilion was created for her receptions and a great many changes were made (rockeries, waterfalls, bridges) in order to enhance walks through this carefully disorganised English garden. On the banks of the Seine, at the entrance to the castle, you can still see the sculpted lions and caryatids.

The Beauséjour castle (now the town hall) and Prunay castle (magnificent 17th century house with adjoining farm and dovecote) are also a must!

The Musée Promenade 
This museum shows both Marly in the 17th and 18th centuries and Louis XIV’s original and rustic abode. 
His collections of paintings, engravings and furniture are allusions to both Madame du Barry and Madame Vigée-Lebrun, who lived in the Château des Sources in Louveciennes. Another room is devoted to the history of the Marly Machine, and numerous conferences are open to the public.


BOUGIVAL, THE BOHEMIAN

Bougival was frequented by Bizet, Corot, Meissonnier and Renoir. The Grenouillère café was always full of boaters and their friends from Paris, their carefree lives being immortalised on canvas by Renoir, Berthe Morisot and Monet. 

From the main Ile de la Loge bridge you can see the Marly Machine old buildings. This extraordinary work of art was built in 1681 to pump water from the Seine to the ponds in Marly castle and on to those of the Château de Versailles; although it became famous, people were also afraid of the deafening noise of the rods. If you climb to the top of the slope you can also see Madame du Barry’s music pavilion which was built by the famous architect C.N. Ledoux in 1771 (not open to visits).

RUEIL MALMAISON, IMPERIAL TOWN

This former imperial town is full of memories and secret treasures, but the urbanisation of latter years means you must be prepared to hunt them down. The town’s fame mainly comes from Malmaison castle, dating back to the Napoleonic era.

The Musée de Malmaison
In 1799 Joséphine de Beauharnais, General Bonaparte’s wife, bought the castle and the 260 hectares of Malmaison; it now offers one of the most complete collections of Consulate art. Among the works by Girodet, Gros and David, you will see the weaving loom, the harp and the empress’s tableware – she was very attached to the neo-classic style of the early 1800s.
Avenue du château.

Château de Bois-Préau
Purchased by Joséphine in 1810 to house her physician and guests, Bois-Préau castle is now a museum for relics from Napoleon’s exile on Saint Helena.


Royal and Imperial walks
How about travelling back in time, going from Malmaison castle to the Château de Versailles via either the Manufacture de Sèvres or Saint Cloud park? Every summer these royal and imperial circuits are available from the Versailles tourist office (Tel. 01 39 24 88 88). On average they cost 50€ for the day, which includes an “Empire Luncheon” with dishes created by chefs from the period in question. 

CHATOU: TOWN OF OPEN-AIR CAFES AND DANCES

The town of boaters and impressionists not only welcomed Renoir and his friends, but also gave rise to 20th century Fauvism through Derain and Vlaminck. Its island, bridge and open-air cafés still attract numerous artists and urbanites.

La Maison Fournaise
This house used to belong to the Fournaise family. Mr. Fournaise hired out boats, whilst his wife looked after the restaurant and their daughter Alphonsine – Renoir’s portrait of whom can be found in the Orsay museum – took care of reception. In the 19th century the Fournaise restaurant provided accommodation for illustrious artists such as Renoir, Caillebotte and Guy de Maupassant, all of whom loved the banks of the Seine and the festive atmosphere of Chatou.
The former open-air café now houses the Impressionist museum which has been set up on the second floor of the boathouse. Many temporary exhibitions take place here every year. 

Maison Levanneur
Since 1997, Derain and Vlaminck’s former workshop has become the national centre for stamps and printed art. It has a great number of live-in artists and offers contemporary art exhibitions throughout the year. 

Impressionist Festival
The town recently rediscovered the festive atmosphere of the Belle Epoque: to the sound of waltzes, polkas and mazurkas, visitors just needed to look up to see aerial shows and tightrope walkers. In the afternoon the park was open for picnics, and as evening fell the Fournaise hamlet came alight for “Hypothetical Night-time” with storytellers, barkers and other cheerful showmen getting everyone’s feet tapping to the beat of jigs and quadrilles.

CROISSY-SUR-SEINE 

TAs from the 18th century Croissy sur Seine had a very active market garden business, and it still retains many centres of interest.

Saint-Léonard, a 13th century church restored through the efforts of Anne of Austria and François Patrocles, 17th century lord of Croissy; in 1896 the church was bought by the painter Poilapot, who turned it into a small museum. It is now used for numerous exhibitions.

ARGENTEUIL IS NO MORE…

Once renowned for its market garden produce (especially figs and asparagus), its vines and its green countryside, Argenteuil has little left to show of its glorious past. The industrial revolution destroyed the charm of this little village which so inspired Boudin (“The Argenteuil Pond”), Renoir, Caillebotte (“Argenteuil Bridge and The Seine”) and Claude Monet (“View of Argenteuil”, “Argenteuil Railway Station”).  

Marquis d’Argenson’s castle Saint-Denys Basilica 
In 1866 this neo-Roman style edifice replaced the existing 13th century parish church. The Holy Shroud is kept folded in a little reliquary on the altar of the chapel to the right of the choir. It is a seamless woolen smock, woven on a primitive loom and dyed in ancient times. In 1931 500,000 people came to see the ceremony at which it was solemnly revealed! Infrared analyses have revealed traces of blood, but its authenticity is still a matter of heated debate. Although it was no more than a small village up until the Restoration, Asnières has long since lost most of the charm it possessed during the era of open-air cafés and boating. Fortunately its seventeen squares and gardens still give the town a note of freshness.

The castle 
In 1753, the Marquis d’Argenson built a castle. After having many occupants, it was finally purchased by the County of Hauts-de-Seine. It will not be open for some time, but the façade alone is well worth a visit! 

USEFUL INFORMATION

The Musée Promenade
Grille Royale. Parc de Marly. 
Tel. 01 39 69 06 26

 The Musée de Malmaison
 Avenue du château.
Every day except Tuesdays. 10.00-17.45. 5€. 
Tel. 01 41 29 05 55

 Maison Levanneur
 Tel. 01 39 52 45 35

 Château de Bois-Préau
Thurs.-Sun. 12.30-18.30
5€.
Tel. 01 41 29 05 55

 Marquis d’Argenson’s castle Saint-Denys Basilica
15.00-18.00. Every day except Tuesdays. 
Tel. 01 39 61 03 29

 The Argenteuil Castle
89, rue du Château
Tel. 01 47 90 63 12.

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